Each Chef Must Learn At This Spot’: Unassuming Turkish Eatery Secures Fourth on Ranking of London’s Top Dining Destinations.

Whenever assembling a ranking of London’s finest eateries, one might anticipate renowned high-end names. However, tucked prominently among these culinary titans is a simple salonu found in a outlying part of northern London.

A Shocking Honour

This small Turkish restaurant, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the fourth top restaurant in the capital by a respected food magazine. The accolade has left the family completely shocked.

“I’m totally astonished,” states a owner’s son, pointing to his parents’ relentless work that led to their humble shop earning such a high position on a respected 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

This little venue, which used to be a simple cafe before its conversion into a sought-after destination, has kept much of its earlier charm. It seats just more than 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking show, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy spot,” notes the owner.

A Namesake Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it is all down to the fare, and this establishment certainly excels. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a tender consistency.

The meat is then added into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. When the meaty mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to absorb all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is rolled tightly inside.

It is often enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a strong burst of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The prominent food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is soaked in lighter syrup than usual, imparting it a deeper, more aromatic and more balanced taste.

Surpassing the Stars

Remarkably, this modest spot has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant full for under £25, equivalent tasting menus at top-tier establishments can cost many times that amount.

The Philosophy of Heart

It is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I do not subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is warmth, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is echoed by the list’s curator, who stated that if he were in a role of power, he would “require to make every chef in London visit this spot as a finishing school, to show them the traps of overcomplication, and to show what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

The Story of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not train at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel really proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to find their footing, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum was really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she had a personal life but her friends would come here to support her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these duties made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

A Recognition for the Culture

This restaurant’s accolade is set to echo beyond its own doors. “I think a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the greater significance of this gastronomic honour.

Mark Miller
Mark Miller

Maya is a tech journalist and digital strategist with over a decade of experience covering emerging technologies and their impact on society.